Tag Archives: Travel

Old Town France, the Middle Ages, and Food

This past weekend Sweet Briar (the program I’m studying abroad with) organized a trip to Strasbourg, a city to the west in the country’s famed region of Alsace. I say famed because said territory was a point of deep seated contention between Germany and France, as it continually switched back and forth between the two countries over the last few centuries. One day you were German, the next day you were French, then a few years later you were German again! So it would make sense that such a region (15 minutes away from the border to Germany) would have a blended culture. The buildings look like they belong in a small German town and the German language is heavily present alongside the French.

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That was some delicious ice cream

Strasbourg is also called the capital of Christmas as their December Christmas markets are world renowned. Since it’s only October, I had to settle for buying their famous pain d’épices and visiting the one Christmas shop in Old Town Strasbourg.

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Christmas cookies and pain d’epices

Pain d’épices translated loosely is gingerbread, but gingerbread with a whole lot more flavor containing a wide variety of spices including honey, anise, cinnamon, and even orange.

Upon arriving in Strasbourg, we took a guided tour of Notre Dame de Strasbourg, the striking Gothic cathedral that towers over the town.

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It has to be one of the oldest looking cathedrals I have ever seen.

Next year they will be celebrating 1000 years since the foundation of the cathedral was laid. The cathedral was completed in 1439 and is the highest structure built entirely in the middle ages.

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On the inside, aside from the many glittering stained glass windows, there is an astronomical clock that calculates not only time, but also equinoxes, the lunar calendar, and other astronomical information. Every 15 minutes the clock comes to life and a figure representing a stage of life moves in front of death, a scary skeleton figure, and baby cherubs strike bells.

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Despite all of the cool astronomical references and the general ancient feeling of the town,  my favorite part of the whole trip was definitely the food. Sweet Briar took us to a restaurant that specialized in Baeckeoffe, an Alsatian tradition. Baeckeoffe is essentially a giant, slow cooked hot pot comprised of potatoes, vegetables, and meat marinated in wine.

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The outside.
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The inside.

It was delicious and I don’t think I have ever left a restaurant feeling so stuffed. My table couldn’t even finish the pot, but I still made sure to eat all of my dessert!

Then the next day for lunch I tried another Alsatian specialty called Flammekueche or Tarte flambée depending on your languageIt’s basically a pizza with an extremely thin crust. I had the original which contains fromage blanc, onions and bacon.

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I ate the whole thing. Good thing I had my yoga class the following day.

Then Sunday we took a day trip to Colmar, another city in Alsace.

We took a guided tour of the Unterlinden Museum to see the Isenheim altarpiece, a series of painted panels from the Middle Ages. The symbology and detail of each panel is absolutely stunning.

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They display everything from the crucifixion and resurrection to fantastical scenes of good versus evil. The tour guide actually compared the monsters on this panel to Pokemon!

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Pikachu doesn't see it either
Pikachu doesn’t see it either

Then we returned to Strasbourg for a few hours of free time and I decided to stick to the spirit of old town France and sat at a cafe, milking a glass of raspberry Sirop à l’eau for 2 hours in good French fashion.

Basically Italian soda with flat water, but it tastes so much better than that description.
Basically Italian soda with flat water, but it tastes so much better than that description.

That concludes my weekend in Strasbourg! What’s next on the list? Athens, Rome, Florence, and Venice! Fall break is just around the corner and I’ll be indulging in as much gelato as possible!

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Fête des Vendanges: A French Harvest Festival

Imagine endless booths of wine and champagne, sausages roasting on an open grill, French mashed potatoes stewing over the counter, the scent of hot spiced wine, and limitless varieties of cheeses handed out as free samples: Welcome to La Fête des vendanges de Montmartre: A “grape” harvest festival located just around Sacré-Cœur, one of Paris’ most iconic churches.

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The festival under the basilica
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Various sausages roasting
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Mashed potato stuff, chili con carne, and things I don’t know the names of
Sausage from around France
Sausages from around France
Hot spiced wine and hot chocolate booth
Hot spiced wine and hot chocolate booth

I spent the day wandering through the festival, drinking hot chocolate and admiring the variety of booths the festival offered. I even picked up this for lunch:

A sausage in a French baguette topped with caramelized onions and ketchup and mayo. Then that mashed potato thing.
A sausage in a French baguette topped with caramelized onions and ketchup and mayo. Note the American flag on the wrapper. Then my friend ate that mashed potato thing.

After dinner we returned to watch the fireworks…

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It was a mosh pit

Once the fireworks started though I felt like I was at one of Gatsby’s parties.

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They shot off the fireworks to go along with some music and poetry. The theme of the entire festival was in fact poetry so we were listening to poems about what it means to be a poet, which meant that the entire show was just a big poetical thing

Just a little inception there
Just a little inception there

But the results were absolute astounding.

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Photographs never do fireworks justice!

Then when it was over we almost got trampled leaving. I swear I would have fallen over if I wasn’t pressed up against other people on all sides to keep me from falling!

Since I’m on such a Leonardo DiCaprio theme I’ll just leave you guys with this:

Cheers!
Cheers!

I’ve got some longer posts coming up about classes and a weekend trip to Strasbourg so stay tuned!

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Nuit Blanche: An All Nighter of Art in the City of Light

viewmultimediadocumentLast Saturday was Nuit Blanche, an art festival that starts at around 6pm and doesn’t end until 7 am the next day. The artwork was scattered throughout the city of Paris in “sections” with each section having its own theme.

They even created a handy dandy app that would help you get from area to area for the directionally challenged (ME!) but of course my phone had to die as soon as we got to our first exhibit.

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So with the impeding doom of a dead phone quickly approaching, I decided to check out the biggest exhibit on the map (see number 4 above) which was titled “Open Musée Street-Art Contemporain” (translates to Open Museum Contemporary Street Art, but you lose the Museum Street in translation)

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The lines were enormous, but since the night was young we decided to wait in them. Thankfully they always moved very quickly as it usually was only a matter of counting the people going in or making sure the next group always went in at the start of the next performance.

Honestly, I didn’t get half of the artwork.

Some of it was, well, strange:

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The wall was in between the two

And other pieces of art were just befuddling:

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They left me looking a lot like Dean:

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But regardless of whether I understood it or not, it was all pretty cool:

 

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This guy fixes the walls with legos

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It was even difficult to tell the difference between the street art that had been there before and the actual artwork for Nuit Blanche specifically. I think there were even some artists out there who weren’t technically part of Nuit Blanche who set up displays in the street like this guy:

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He’s spray painting plastic wrap!

Despite all of these pictures, I didn’t even make it through the whole Street Art section before my friends started feeling sick and we decided to call it a night. Honestly,  it was a good idea. The temperature dropped at least 10 degrees and I woke up sick the next morning!

Here’s a video I found if you’re interested in seeing more of Nuit Blanche!

 

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A Vampire Weekend in Nice

Before this past weekend I’d never completely traveled by myself. Sure I’ve taken plane rides between countries alone, but there has always been someone on the other side who already has everything planned out. This weekend trip to Nice, France was all me. I found the cheapest train tickets, the hostel without a curfew, and mapped everything out to be sure we could easily get from the train station to the hostel. It actually went surprisingly well, of course until the end, but I’ll get to that!

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The cheapest round trip train from Paris to Nice we could find for that weekend happened to be an overnight train:

Basically the only picture I could take without seeming like a total creeper
Basically the only picture I could take without seeming like a total creeper

Each “cabin” had 6 beds, 2 stacks of 3 beds each. I felt like I was in some kind of spy movie, walking down the narrow, never ending hallways as if someone was chasing me.

YES
YES.

We got to Nice about 9 am the next morning and dropped our stuff of at the hostel before heading to the beach:

Those are rocks yes
Those are rocks yes

I actually kind of enjoyed the rocks instead of sand. They were horrible to walk on in bare feet, but you didn’t really need a beach towel and you left the beach without having a billion grains of sand in every nook and cranny of your body!

I was pretty nervous about staying in a hostel for the first time since I wasn’t sure what to expect. We stayed in a 6 bed mixed gender room, which was fine since we had a guy travelling with us. Surprisingly, we had an en-suite shower and we were even given free breakfast! All of our roommates were very nice and interesting to talk to and staying in a hostel even allowed me to meet some other Americans who were also studying abroad in Paris spending a weekend in Nice! What a small world! The hostel also provided lockers, towels, sheets, a hairdryer(!!), and of course, free Wifi.

We spent almost the entirety of our second day at the beach.

I think I sometimes forget that vampires (aka super white people like me) burn in the sunlight even with multiple applications of sunscreen, because this was me:

I burn. RIP Godric and True Blood.
I burn. RIP Godric and True Blood.

My future vacations will have to be beach-less I’m afraid.

Of course, our weekend trip could not possibly finish without a major problem, because it turns out everyone in our group just thought they knew the exact time the train left and no one actually checked to make sure… So we missed our train…

Sticking with the vampire theme... this was me.
Sticking with the vampire theme… this was me.

We took the next train though and we all got back to Paris in one piece, but for future reference I’m going to insist on seeing the train times for myself to avoid future sunburned vampire catastrophes. It would be a disaster.

In other news, my classes at the Sorbonne start this week…

I'm starting to think this might be me at the end of the week...
I’m starting to think this might be me at the end of the week…

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Officially Not a Tourist

Last Friday I officially, (according to me) surpassed the label of “tourist” and I am now living in Paris rather than just visiting.

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Of course, that means I forget to take pictures of the major monument that I happen to be living by…

Oh hey there neighbor
Oh hey there neighbor!

Because it also happens that I’m living directly off of the Champs-Élysées, which is horrendously full of tourists all the time. They’re all there to see (and a very few make purchases in) all the designer stores. Louis Vuitton anyone? Yeah, not me. I usually walk pretty fast along that street because it’s always so crowded and uncomfortable.

Speaking of where I’m living… I’m in a tiny little apartment that has been supposedly handed down through my host mom’s family for generations. The floors creak when you move the tiniest bit and every room has the grand classic windows of your typical Parisian home. I love it!

My host mom’s vivacious personality has taken a little bit of getting used to. I was definitely overwhelmed the first few days because she likes to know everything that is going on with me. I’m not used to explaining every detail of my schedule! It’s also her first time hosting a student with the Sweet Briar program so she’s not quite sure how things work. Besides that she’s been really great to me, getting me to talk and correcting my grammar and pronunciation when necessary, making sure that I have everything I need, and that I like what we’re eating for dinner.

Regarding classes, we’ve been left to explore the city for the most part by Sweet Briar, since classes at the Sorbonne don’t start for over another week! Which means exploring the city and mapping out where all the free restrooms are… If you’ve ever been to Europe you know that a free restroom is like a holy grail. Most of the time they cost about 0.50 cents!

My expression when I found the first FREE bathroom.
My expression when I found the first FREE bathroom.
And my apprehension. They're free for a reason?
And my apprehension. They’re free for a reason? Gotta love those candid pictures.

We’ve had a few small classes, such as a class on current French politics (Interesting if you haven’t already taken a few classes on the subject!) and a very general, vague course on methodology for the courses we will take. For example, how to write a “dissertation” or a “commentaire-composé” for our classes at the Sorbonne. Thankfully we will have weekly tutorials at Sweet Briar since most of this “hypothetical” subject matter went right over my head.

Tomorrow, I think I’m finally going to visit a museum! But I’m definitely not a tourist anymore, I’m a student of French history, art, and literature according to my Student ID card. (Next time you see a cute French boy, tell him you study French literature -you might get a free drink**)

Technically not a tourist, but not by much
Technically not a tourist, but not by much

**Don’t actually do this.

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