Tag Archives: Study Abroad

Macarons, Stupid Pralines, and Raw Fish

If you read my earlier post you’ll know I took a quick jaunt around Europe earlier this summer and went to London, Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam. I’m stating my top 3 favorite and 2 least favorite things about each city and yet I do believe these blog posts are turning out longer than the trip itself!

Paris: ❤ ❤ ❤

+1. It felt like home: An overwhelming wave of nostalgia hit me as our bus took us from the train station to our dinner in the center of Paris. This was the city where I’d shared some of my fondest memories with my family and even adventured by myself as a young teenager. I didn’t feel like a tourist this time around. I felt like I was coming home ❤

It's the obligatory picture every time you go
It’s the obligatory picture every time you go

+2. Macarons: If you have never had a macaroon, (macaron in French) consider yourself a deprived individual and order yourself a box straight away. I hunted down Laduree, the most famous macaron chain in Paris and got a box of them with my family. Worth every centine 😉

Quite possible the most famous macaron vendor in Paris
Quite possible the most famous macaron vendor in Paris
And these are the delightfully delicious aforementioned sweets <3
And these are the delightfully delicious aforementioned sweets ❤

+3. Cinnamon chocolate: I have been dying the last 2 years, deprived of this delicacy I have only every been able to find in France. If you’ve every added cinnamon to your hot chocolate in the winter you have tasted just a fraction of the bliss of what true cinnamon chocolate gives you. If you find a supplier of cinnamon chocolate who ships to the states, please let me know! Thankfully, the chocolate store under the Louvre will serve as my chocolate drug dealer in the upcoming year.

-1. The Lock Bridge: Two years ago it was one of my favorite things about Paris. It’s been my iPhone’s home screen for that long as well. So you can imagine that I was a little distressed to see my favorite bridge go from this:

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June 2012

To this:

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June 2014

Shocking huh? They’ve started locking chains onto the bridge so that even MORE locks can go on!

-2. Tourists: I know I know. Technically I was a tourist, but when I’m in France I want to speak French not English! The tourism industry makes it very difficult to speak French since almost everyone there speaks English.

Brussels:

+1. Chocolate: Not as good as French cinnamon chocolate, but when you have entire streets dedicated to chocolate stores who make everything from  dark chocolate to basil honey chocolate you know you’re in heaven!

+2. Waffles: Belgian Waffles.

No words necessary
No words necessary

If that didn’t convince you:

+3. They speak French! Definitely a plus that they speak my favorite language. Especially handy when you need to yell at your waiter for not telling you that it would take an hour and a half to prepare lunch. Ahh Belgians.

-1. Belgian Pralines: I have the unfortunate malady of being allergic to nuts. So whenever I walk into a chocolate shop I make sure to ask (in 2 different languages) if the chocolate I wish to buy has nuts. (Side story: I almost didn’t get into Rice because of an incident that occurred right before my interview!) I was quite distraught in this one chocolate store because everything was labelled as “Praline.” Now I’ve never eaten a praline for obvious reasons, but I’ve always labelled them in my mind as “chocolate things with nuts.” I told this to the shopkeeper, in French, who assured me that Belgian pralines did not have nuts.

So I bought a TON of chocolate from that store.

Unfortunately as I learned by about my 3rd piece, is that sure enough Belgian pralines do not contain nuts, but that Belgium also likes to make normal pralines as well. So I had a bag full of “Belgian” pralines and “nutty” pralines and no way of knowing which was which unless I wanted to put myself in the hospital.

 

"Good" Praline
“Good” Praline
"Bad" Praline
“Bad” Praline

I feel like this kid:

Blame Tumblr
Blame Tumblr

I think I’ll stick to my French chocolate…

-2. Time: We spent a morning there. Maybe 10 am to 12:30? I know Brussels isn’t famous for much, but I wish I could have toured the European Parliament!

Amsterdam:

+1. Raw Fish: I ate raw fish. I ATE RAW FISH AND I LIKED IT.

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Anyways… It was raw herring to be exact. It was delicious.

Tastes better than it looks I promise!
Tastes better than it looks I promise!

+2. Dutch Country Life: Endless windmills and green rolling hills, tulips of all sorts and life on the waterfront. Plus their outfits were super colorful!

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When my dad came to Amsterdam in 1970 he and his family took a family portrait at one of those “dress-up” places:

Approximately taken in 1970
Approximately taken in 1970

So of course we had to take one all together too!

2014: 44 years later!
2014: 44 years later!

+3. Environmentally Friendly: Don’t have to worry about pollution here, you just have to worry about being run down by the thousands upon thousands of bicyclists.

So many bikes!
So many bikes!

-1. Amsterdam itself: Unfortunately as we were travelling with a group of 14 year olds, the tour guides thought it wise to find a hotel far outside the city limits to make it impossible for anyone to sneak out and sample some of Amsterdam’s more explicit activities. So I didn’t actually see much of the city. Which is even more unfortunate because they have a museum full of Vermeer’s! Girl with a Pearl Earring anyone??

They made a movie based off of this painting!  AKA I missed seeing a movie star in real life
They made a movie based off of this painting! AKA I missed seeing a movie star in real life

-2. Dutch Toilets:

You walk into the bathroom (that you had to pay half a euro for because of course there’s free healthcare in Europe, but no free loos)  and you see that all of the stall doors are made of glass. Not frosty glass oh no, the completely clear glassy glass.

Thank goodness it frosts over when you lock the stall door.

But still, that was a weird experience…

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The End of One Chapter and Into Another

As the school year is drawing to a close, I wanted to post again before finals start and everyone goes home.

If you didn’t already know, next year I will be studying abroad in Paris for the entire year. Not just fall semester, but ALL YEAR. It’s with a program called “Sweet Briar Junior Year in France” and I will be taking all of my classes in French with French students at the Sorbonne. If you have known me previously, you know that I am finally fulfilling my dream because France is my number one favorite subject to talk about ever. (Really. I think some of my friends may get annoyed!) I’ve been planning this trip since high school and I know next year is going to be the best year of my life.

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This will actually be my 5th time going to Paris and my second time going alone so the city is no stranger. When I go to France, it feels like I’m going home. As weird as this sounds, I truly feel that it is the country I belong it.

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Yet, as my first year of college draws to a close, I can’t help but feel anxious and well, heartbroken that I have to leave behind all of the amazing people I have met this year. Nearly every day I leave lunch, my chest tightens up, I feel like crying and it sucks. Most of my friends will still be here after my year abroad and we will all skype regularly, but I will miss so many things: eating lunch with them, dancing crazily together, procrastinating on homework… I could go on and on. I’ve been trying to make the most of my last few days here with them before we all go home for summer and I leave for Paris, but the pain of saying goodbye on that final day will not get any easier. Let’s just say that the plane ride there is going to contain some of the most conflicting emotions of my life.

Me being conflicted in front of the Thinker in 2012.
Me being conflicted in front of the Thinker in 2012.

On the other hand the realization that I’m leaving is rather liberating, yet extremely bad for my impending research paper and exams. I’m leaving for a year, so I have to experience everything here to the fullest before that day comes. Some of my friends may think I’ve gone a little crazy as my moods alternate from the depression of having to leave them, to the crazed intensity of wanting to do everything with them just a few more times. Why study when I could go to the pool or have adventures around campus with my friends?

Unfortunately, with all of these emotions I have realized that there are always two sides to studying abroad. The excitement of going to a foreign country to experience new cultures and meet new people, and the gloom that comes with having to say goodbye to the friends you will leave behind.

Even more frightening is the realization that this will be my entire life. My dream job involves moving to a different country every two years, with no guaranteed return. So this next year won’t just be about stuffing my face with macaroons and learning how to blend in with all of the super fashionable French women. It will be a test to see if I can really stand to pack up my life and move long term to another country and then continue doing so for the rest of my life.

It’ll be the best year of my life, but that doesn’t change the fact that I will be leaving my best friends, not to mention my family for a year.

“Why do you go away? So that you can come back. So that you can see the place you came from with new eyes and extra colors.” -Terry Pratchett, A Hat Full of Sky

This quote brings up one final issue. I will be leaving here to spend a year in the country of my dreams. Make sure I come back. I’m really going to miss you guys.

 

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Happy Turkish local election day!

Today, people across Turkey are voting in local elections. If you’ve been keeping up with Turkish news recently, you’ll know that recently the government of Turkey has blocked both Twitter and YouTube due to leaked tapes displaying government corruption and even invasion plans for Syria. Therefore, these local elections are crucial. If the incumbent AKP party wins again, Facebook is likely to be blocked.

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AKP flags that we observed hanging all throughout Istanbul.

While on my trip to Istanbul, I was lucky enough to meet the opposition CHP mayoral candidate for one municipality, Beyoglu. Unfortunately, our group was not able to meet with any incumbent AKP mayors, but meeting Aylin Kotil was an eye-opening experience into local Turkish politics and campaigns.

Aylin Kotil
Aylin Kotil

First, a bit of background:

The AKP party was created in 2001 and shortly after that they gained control of the country in a series of landslide elections. They still control most of the country, but the main opposition party, the CHP, has slowly been gaining more ground. Their main ideological divide is that the AKP endorses Islam, while the CHP is secular. Even though I will be writing about my experience meeting a CHP candidate, I do not endorse either party. I am not Turkish and therefore cannot even pretend to know what is best for their interests. (I really like Facebook and YouTube though…)

Story time:

I had just walked into a campaign office for the first time in my life. Was it the Democrat’s campaign office? No. Republican’s? No. It wasn’t even American.

One of the CHP's many campaign offices
One of the CHP’s many campaign offices

It was the campaign office of the CHP (People’s Republican Party) of Turkey. Aylin Kotil is running as the opposition candidate for mayor of the Beyoglu municipality of Istanbul. Despite her extremely busy schedule of running a campaign she still had agreed to meet with us, a group of American college students who could in no way help her campaign in the slightest.

As we walked in, the first thing I noticed was how many women there were walking about. At least 75% of her campaign volunteers that day were women and what was most interesting to see was that one of the women was wearing a hijab. (Read this post to hear about my research) That was as clear of a sign as any that the CHP is drawing back from their former position of an almost radical separation of church and state.

Aylin herself came out to greet us, in English suprisingly, to tell us that in half an hour we would be joining her on her campaign bus to visit businesses in the district.

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My reaction

Needless to say, we were excited.

It turned out to be a giant tour bus, but with at least a dozen speakers attached to the top. As soon as the bus started moving, our campaign music started playing. It was such a high energy exciting song! Side note: We rode around in that bus for several hours, listening to that song the entire time. By the time we got off, we were all singing it.

Aylin's campaign bus. Please note the giant speakers on top!
Aylin’s campaign bus. Please note the giant speakers on top!

The first place we went was a low income, AKP-friendly neighborhood. We hopped off the bus, and literally followed Aylin around as she went door to door shaking hands with all of the business owners and anyone who happened to pass. Apparently in Turkish politics, personal connections with the person running for office are expected. Aylin had already visited the neighborhood several times already, yet it was still a contentious area.

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At one point my friend and I got completely separated from the rest of our American, English speaking classmates. Apparently most of the group had decided to go to Tarlabasi, another area in the district. We decided to just keep following the campaign, since that was our best bet of meeting up with everyone again, but of course, someone from the campaign noticed that the rest of our group had left and a game of charades and language barriers ensued!

The photographer pointed to us and then made a questioning, looking around motion.

“Our friends left us!” we said.

“…” He looked confused.

We shrugged our shoulders, lifted our hands up high and put on confused faces.

He looked confused again.

“They… left us! Tarlabasi!”

He nodded, then pointed to us and looked confused.

“We stay here!” We pointed to each other and the ground.

He smiled and gave us a thumbs up. Crisis averted.

Despite the complications and annoyances of language barriers, I honestly kind of like them. They’re like a challenge. When you finally get your meaning across, through a careful selection of simple words, or a creative use of gestures, it’s extremely satisfying and a lot of fun!

On our way back to the bus, we ended up running into a group of ladies who created a dance to go with the campaign music!

Can you point out the Americans of the video?

After getting back on the bus, we drove to a quaint, outdoor cafe where we sat down for all of 10 minutes before going to lunch. During this fast break, we were able to have a personal conversation with Aylin. She mainly talked about her plans to help improve the conditions of women in the area: she mentioned building a women’s resource center with pilates and daycare areas. She had just started talking about some of the AKP’s policies in her neighborhood that were religiously affiliated (MY TOPIC) when we had to leave.

Sometimes I feel like Loki:

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Anyways… back to the bus where we drove around some more before going to eat lunch with some textile workers. (Read this post to see what we ate!)

Despite being cooped up in that bus for hours, it was honestly my favorite part of the entire campaign experience. We drove through the city, blasting amazing, energizing music, and literally every person we passed in the streets turned to look at us. I felt a tiny bit famous. Okay, Aylin was on the bus with us waving out the window, but it was still a cool feeling! The people’s reactions were so amusing. Some of them even covered their ears, or their childrens’ ears. Guess we weren’t appreciated everywhere.

Check back in a few days for an updated post on the election results! I know my class will probably throw a party if Aylin wins. 🙂

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TURKISH FOOD: My Quest to Find Ice Cream in the Winter

The food in Turkey is delicious. There is really no other word to describe it. I have actually missed it so much that last weekend I went to the Turkish restaurant in the neighborhood, but it was only a faint comparison.

I saw this promotional tourism video before I left, and the image I most remember is at 44 seconds. Turkish ice-cream! The video makes it look like a semi-solid, super elastic form of ice-cream. All I knew was that I had to have some. But of course, only in America do you sell ice-cream in the winter! 😦

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpkfMP5NiWw

6/1/2014 EDIT: It has come to my attention that the video above no longer exists. This must have happened when the Turkish government blocked YouTube. It was basically a really cute tourism video made by Turkish Airlines, but as Turkish Airlines is run by the government I doubt that the video will be back anytime soon 😦

Anyways, my favorite food by far was the Turkish pizza, called Pide.

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Pide Pizza and Apple tea. This pizza had some sort of minced meat and a special type of pepperoni.
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This one looks more like a baguette, but I promise it had lots of gooey cheese in the middle! Also, random fact, the Lipton iced tea in the states is horribly sweet, but outside of the US it always has just the right amount of sugar! Go figure.

My second favorite food was Kofte, a spiced, grilled, meat-ball like food.

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Literally the only thing this restaurant served was Kofte and salad. We didn’t get menus when we walked in, just Kofte, Kofte, and more Kofte!
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Lamb Shish Kebab and Kofte.

The Turkish people make rice really, really well. So well, that we would order extra sides of it! It’s called Pilav (like pilaf!)  and it usually has some sort of oil that gives it such a distinctive, light, pleasant flavor.

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Yum 🙂

One night our group was invited to a Turkish family’s home for dinner! It was such an interesting cultural experience. They served dinner buffet-style and had many different dishes. I only took one picture, because I didn’t want to seem like a creeper, but everything was delicious!

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This was another Pilav (rice) dish, but with meat. The lady told us that you put the meat at the bottom, then add the rice, and then flip the entire dish over onto a plate so that it looks really pretty. It was delicious!

Street Food: Doner!

That's Doner. It's like a giant slab of meat that is continually roasting.
That’s Doner. It’s like a giant slab of meat that is continually roasting. They either serve it on a bed of rice, or in a sandwich/wrap if you get it on the street!
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Adana meat, which is a lot spicier than normal meat, in a wrap with lettuce, tomato, cucumber, and other yummy things.
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Chicken Doner and freshly squeezed pomegranate juice! It was a little too tart for me, but what was I expecting??

Chicken Shish

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Chicken Shish. That yellow thing on the plate was in fact mashed potatoes! I was so surprised to find them outside of the states!

Ottoman Food: One night we went to an Ottoman restaurant in the neighborhood. Apparently Ottoman food is different from Turkish food because they tend to serve fruit in their meat dishes!

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I really wish I wrote the name of the dish down. We were at an Ottoman restaurant, it was lamb and it was fantastic. They also served it with an open flame!

Manti:

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Manti, according to Wikipedia are Turkish dumplings, but I thought it was just filled pasta shells! They contained spiced meat and they were covered in some sort of yogurt sauce.

One day, while we were with a CHP (political party in Turkey) candidate, we went to have lunch with the textile workers of Beyoğlu, a district in Istanbul. There were so many different groups of people from all over the world! The textile companies provide meals for their workers and give them lunch breaks, so this place was constantly full of people. They all segregated to sit with people who spoke their own language, but I met a man from Nigeria because he was the only worker there that we knew spoke English. I wish I could have found a way to discover how many different countries the workers were all from!

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Front: Roasted squash and eggplant stuffed with rice, and some sort of soup.
Back: Dessert. I have no idea what it is called (there were no signs anywhere) but it tasted like cinnamon and the texture reminded me a little bit of couscous. Good stuff.

Okay, I lied earlier. Istanbul does sell ice-cream in the winter, but you really have to search for it. Every time I saw that rare someone with ice-cream in the street, we were always rushing to our next meeting of the day! I was convinced that it was my fate to never have the pleasure of trying Turkish ice-cream, but by pure luck I found it on my last day!

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Here’s a picture of me taking a picture of the ice-cream, because I was so excited to finally find it!
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See how stretchy it is? The ice-cream itself was actually very good, but it was slightly chewier than most ice-cream!

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Research in Turkey: Or How No One Would Answer My Question

I traveled to Istanbul this past spring break as part of a class research trip. Everyone going had their own individual research questions, but we all met with the same government officials, policy makers, and university professors during our week in Turkey.

We visited quite a few housing development sites, some that are quite controversial as the government kicked the previous dwellers out and then built luxury, for-profit apartments.

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And even cruise-ship like resort complexes:

It's actually a bunch of apartments, but it's giant!
It’s actually a bunch of apartments, but it’s giant!

So the people studying housing were more successful in finding relevant information than others…

But a few of us, like me, ended up with very little data. People just kept avoiding our questions! One policy center we went to was quite frustrating:

Q: “What is Istanbul’s policy regarding the Syrian refugees?”

A: “Well they’re not refugees. They’re just transients.”

Q: “How do the local governments here deal with minorities and their access to education?”

A: “Turkey doesn’t have any minorities. Since the country is 98% Turkish, their numbers are too small to count as minorities.”

What we looked like at the table. "Did they really just say that??"
What we looked like at the table. “Did they really just say that??”

I’m not joking. The policy study center actually told us that.

Anyways, for my project I decided to pick the most divisive issue in Turkish politics. Political Islam.

Me at the Blue Mosque! This was the only place in Istanbul that I had to cover my hair.
Me at the Blue Mosque! This was the only place in Istanbul that I was required to cover my hair. I was worried that my bangs were going to cause problems, but I was fine.

**Disclaimer: I am not trying to promote a certain ideology or offend anyone with this topic, but as an American, where church and state are (mostly) separated, the idea of a government either banning religious garb or promoting it, is especially curious**

When the Turkish republic was founded in 1923, the new secular government took separation of church and state a little too seriously. Headscarves were actually banned from government buildings and schools at one point. With the rise of the AKP as the dominant party in the 2000’s they began getting rid of such policies and then started implementing controversial policies with distinctive Islamic undertones. While on the trip I wanted to focus on local municipalities and what policies had been implemented that could have religious motivations. I also wanted to ask the secular party, the CHP, how they were going to react to such policy changes and if elected, were they planning on reversing all of the AKP’s policies?

Headscarves for sale!
Headscarves for sale!

I discovered a little…

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Aylin Kotil, a CHP candidate.

For example, the CHP party is now backing away from their strong, secularist past and they are now seeking to integrate all people into their party, secular or not. However, apparently there is a stigma in Turkey that you are a bad Muslim if you don’t vote for the AKP, so whether this strategy will work for the CHP has yet to be seen.

But no one ever really answered my specific questions. One guy told me political Islam wasn’t a big deal for daily life in Turkey, because if you knew a person who knew a person you could always get around the sale alcohol ban after 1opm (not counting bars).

Because I am obviously an ignorant American college student who only cares about alcohol.  Whatever. (Turkish nightlife was pretty cool though, but that’s another story!)

Unfortunately, since this was a school trip, I wasn’t allowed to split off from the group to find people who would answer my questions. So now I have a research paper coming up and no data!

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Research sucks.

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