Tag Archives: Food

Old Town France, the Middle Ages, and Food

This past weekend Sweet Briar (the program I’m studying abroad with) organized a trip to Strasbourg, a city to the west in the country’s famed region of Alsace. I say famed because said territory was a point of deep seated contention between Germany and France, as it continually switched back and forth between the two countries over the last few centuries. One day you were German, the next day you were French, then a few years later you were German again! So it would make sense that such a region (15 minutes away from the border to Germany) would have a blended culture. The buildings look like they belong in a small German town and the German language is heavily present alongside the French.

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That was some delicious ice cream

Strasbourg is also called the capital of Christmas as their December Christmas markets are world renowned. Since it’s only October, I had to settle for buying their famous pain d’épices and visiting the one Christmas shop in Old Town Strasbourg.

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Christmas cookies and pain d’epices

Pain d’épices translated loosely is gingerbread, but gingerbread with a whole lot more flavor containing a wide variety of spices including honey, anise, cinnamon, and even orange.

Upon arriving in Strasbourg, we took a guided tour of Notre Dame de Strasbourg, the striking Gothic cathedral that towers over the town.

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It has to be one of the oldest looking cathedrals I have ever seen.

Next year they will be celebrating 1000 years since the foundation of the cathedral was laid. The cathedral was completed in 1439 and is the highest structure built entirely in the middle ages.

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On the inside, aside from the many glittering stained glass windows, there is an astronomical clock that calculates not only time, but also equinoxes, the lunar calendar, and other astronomical information. Every 15 minutes the clock comes to life and a figure representing a stage of life moves in front of death, a scary skeleton figure, and baby cherubs strike bells.

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Despite all of the cool astronomical references and the general ancient feeling of the town,  my favorite part of the whole trip was definitely the food. Sweet Briar took us to a restaurant that specialized in Baeckeoffe, an Alsatian tradition. Baeckeoffe is essentially a giant, slow cooked hot pot comprised of potatoes, vegetables, and meat marinated in wine.

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The outside.
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The inside.

It was delicious and I don’t think I have ever left a restaurant feeling so stuffed. My table couldn’t even finish the pot, but I still made sure to eat all of my dessert!

Then the next day for lunch I tried another Alsatian specialty called Flammekueche or Tarte flambée depending on your languageIt’s basically a pizza with an extremely thin crust. I had the original which contains fromage blanc, onions and bacon.

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I ate the whole thing. Good thing I had my yoga class the following day.

Then Sunday we took a day trip to Colmar, another city in Alsace.

We took a guided tour of the Unterlinden Museum to see the Isenheim altarpiece, a series of painted panels from the Middle Ages. The symbology and detail of each panel is absolutely stunning.

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They display everything from the crucifixion and resurrection to fantastical scenes of good versus evil. The tour guide actually compared the monsters on this panel to Pokemon!

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Pikachu doesn't see it either
Pikachu doesn’t see it either

Then we returned to Strasbourg for a few hours of free time and I decided to stick to the spirit of old town France and sat at a cafe, milking a glass of raspberry Sirop à l’eau for 2 hours in good French fashion.

Basically Italian soda with flat water, but it tastes so much better than that description.
Basically Italian soda with flat water, but it tastes so much better than that description.

That concludes my weekend in Strasbourg! What’s next on the list? Athens, Rome, Florence, and Venice! Fall break is just around the corner and I’ll be indulging in as much gelato as possible!

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Fête des Vendanges: A French Harvest Festival

Imagine endless booths of wine and champagne, sausages roasting on an open grill, French mashed potatoes stewing over the counter, the scent of hot spiced wine, and limitless varieties of cheeses handed out as free samples: Welcome to La Fête des vendanges de Montmartre: A “grape” harvest festival located just around Sacré-Cœur, one of Paris’ most iconic churches.

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The festival under the basilica
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Various sausages roasting
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Mashed potato stuff, chili con carne, and things I don’t know the names of
Sausage from around France
Sausages from around France
Hot spiced wine and hot chocolate booth
Hot spiced wine and hot chocolate booth

I spent the day wandering through the festival, drinking hot chocolate and admiring the variety of booths the festival offered. I even picked up this for lunch:

A sausage in a French baguette topped with caramelized onions and ketchup and mayo. Then that mashed potato thing.
A sausage in a French baguette topped with caramelized onions and ketchup and mayo. Note the American flag on the wrapper. Then my friend ate that mashed potato thing.

After dinner we returned to watch the fireworks…

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It was a mosh pit

Once the fireworks started though I felt like I was at one of Gatsby’s parties.

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They shot off the fireworks to go along with some music and poetry. The theme of the entire festival was in fact poetry so we were listening to poems about what it means to be a poet, which meant that the entire show was just a big poetical thing

Just a little inception there
Just a little inception there

But the results were absolute astounding.

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Photographs never do fireworks justice!

Then when it was over we almost got trampled leaving. I swear I would have fallen over if I wasn’t pressed up against other people on all sides to keep me from falling!

Since I’m on such a Leonardo DiCaprio theme I’ll just leave you guys with this:

Cheers!
Cheers!

I’ve got some longer posts coming up about classes and a weekend trip to Strasbourg so stay tuned!

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First Day of Class?

Is it actually possible for someone to be excited to start classes again?

The answer is: yes. I’ve had an enormous amount of free time this past week. What? Free time in Paris is everyone’s dream? Unless you’re a broke American college student…

Then you visit museums and mournfully window shop.

And laugh at the English shirts...
And laugh at the English shirts…

Just kidding. While I have already visited several museums, I’ve mainly just been wandering around Paris finding the shopping malls, avoiding the tourist areas, and noting down cool restaurants like “Bagels and Brownies” to check out later.

Nothing particularly Parisian about a bagel sandwich named "Brooklyn" but it was delicious!
Nothing particularly Parisian about a bagel sandwich named “Brooklyn” but it was delicious!

But a girl can only do so much walking a day before she starts to get cranky. So Sunday I decided to take advantage of the beautiful weather and read my French Sci-Fi novel in my neighborhood park.

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The only thing that would have made that day even more perfect would have been a tall cup of sugary iced coffee… Uhh I mean Perrier.

Definitely.
Definitely.

Sorry guys. I swear I haven’t set foot in a Starbucks yet, but the instant coffee that the French love to drink is anything but satisfying. Either I’m going to figure out how to work a French press, that I can buy at Monoprix for pretty cheap, or I’m going to be a regular customer at a French café. Be prepared for a blog post all about coffee in the coming months.

But thankfully, I started classes today! Well, my classes with Sweet Briar at least. Sweet Briar is the college that runs this particular study abroad program in Paris. They hold excursions throughout the year and serve basically as a bunch of adults willing to hold our hands (if necessary) through life in Paris and classes at the Sorbonne. We take half of our classes with Sweet Briar (all French professors though) and half of our classes at the Sorbonne.

The class I had today was the “Atelier d’écriture” or a nitpicky French grammar and writing class that Sweet Briar highly recommends. I was pleasantly surprised at how much I enjoyed a class about grammar. The professor basically gave us a few complicated English sentences to translate into French and then taught us the “French” way to write them correctly. She then made us practice over and over again using hilarious sentences such as “No matter where you go I will find you.”

Is Taken a little too close to home?
Is Taken a little too close to home? Moving on…

All in all a good first day of classes. Stay tuned for updates on the rest of my classes including an Art History class that supposedly meets in the Louvre? I can’t wait!

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Macarons, Stupid Pralines, and Raw Fish

If you read my earlier post you’ll know I took a quick jaunt around Europe earlier this summer and went to London, Paris, Brussels and Amsterdam. I’m stating my top 3 favorite and 2 least favorite things about each city and yet I do believe these blog posts are turning out longer than the trip itself!

Paris: ❤ ❤ ❤

+1. It felt like home: An overwhelming wave of nostalgia hit me as our bus took us from the train station to our dinner in the center of Paris. This was the city where I’d shared some of my fondest memories with my family and even adventured by myself as a young teenager. I didn’t feel like a tourist this time around. I felt like I was coming home ❤

It's the obligatory picture every time you go
It’s the obligatory picture every time you go

+2. Macarons: If you have never had a macaroon, (macaron in French) consider yourself a deprived individual and order yourself a box straight away. I hunted down Laduree, the most famous macaron chain in Paris and got a box of them with my family. Worth every centine 😉

Quite possible the most famous macaron vendor in Paris
Quite possible the most famous macaron vendor in Paris
And these are the delightfully delicious aforementioned sweets <3
And these are the delightfully delicious aforementioned sweets ❤

+3. Cinnamon chocolate: I have been dying the last 2 years, deprived of this delicacy I have only every been able to find in France. If you’ve every added cinnamon to your hot chocolate in the winter you have tasted just a fraction of the bliss of what true cinnamon chocolate gives you. If you find a supplier of cinnamon chocolate who ships to the states, please let me know! Thankfully, the chocolate store under the Louvre will serve as my chocolate drug dealer in the upcoming year.

-1. The Lock Bridge: Two years ago it was one of my favorite things about Paris. It’s been my iPhone’s home screen for that long as well. So you can imagine that I was a little distressed to see my favorite bridge go from this:

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June 2012

To this:

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June 2014

Shocking huh? They’ve started locking chains onto the bridge so that even MORE locks can go on!

-2. Tourists: I know I know. Technically I was a tourist, but when I’m in France I want to speak French not English! The tourism industry makes it very difficult to speak French since almost everyone there speaks English.

Brussels:

+1. Chocolate: Not as good as French cinnamon chocolate, but when you have entire streets dedicated to chocolate stores who make everything from  dark chocolate to basil honey chocolate you know you’re in heaven!

+2. Waffles: Belgian Waffles.

No words necessary
No words necessary

If that didn’t convince you:

+3. They speak French! Definitely a plus that they speak my favorite language. Especially handy when you need to yell at your waiter for not telling you that it would take an hour and a half to prepare lunch. Ahh Belgians.

-1. Belgian Pralines: I have the unfortunate malady of being allergic to nuts. So whenever I walk into a chocolate shop I make sure to ask (in 2 different languages) if the chocolate I wish to buy has nuts. (Side story: I almost didn’t get into Rice because of an incident that occurred right before my interview!) I was quite distraught in this one chocolate store because everything was labelled as “Praline.” Now I’ve never eaten a praline for obvious reasons, but I’ve always labelled them in my mind as “chocolate things with nuts.” I told this to the shopkeeper, in French, who assured me that Belgian pralines did not have nuts.

So I bought a TON of chocolate from that store.

Unfortunately as I learned by about my 3rd piece, is that sure enough Belgian pralines do not contain nuts, but that Belgium also likes to make normal pralines as well. So I had a bag full of “Belgian” pralines and “nutty” pralines and no way of knowing which was which unless I wanted to put myself in the hospital.

 

"Good" Praline
“Good” Praline
"Bad" Praline
“Bad” Praline

I feel like this kid:

Blame Tumblr
Blame Tumblr

I think I’ll stick to my French chocolate…

-2. Time: We spent a morning there. Maybe 10 am to 12:30? I know Brussels isn’t famous for much, but I wish I could have toured the European Parliament!

Amsterdam:

+1. Raw Fish: I ate raw fish. I ATE RAW FISH AND I LIKED IT.

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Anyways… It was raw herring to be exact. It was delicious.

Tastes better than it looks I promise!
Tastes better than it looks I promise!

+2. Dutch Country Life: Endless windmills and green rolling hills, tulips of all sorts and life on the waterfront. Plus their outfits were super colorful!

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When my dad came to Amsterdam in 1970 he and his family took a family portrait at one of those “dress-up” places:

Approximately taken in 1970
Approximately taken in 1970

So of course we had to take one all together too!

2014: 44 years later!
2014: 44 years later!

+3. Environmentally Friendly: Don’t have to worry about pollution here, you just have to worry about being run down by the thousands upon thousands of bicyclists.

So many bikes!
So many bikes!

-1. Amsterdam itself: Unfortunately as we were travelling with a group of 14 year olds, the tour guides thought it wise to find a hotel far outside the city limits to make it impossible for anyone to sneak out and sample some of Amsterdam’s more explicit activities. So I didn’t actually see much of the city. Which is even more unfortunate because they have a museum full of Vermeer’s! Girl with a Pearl Earring anyone??

They made a movie based off of this painting!  AKA I missed seeing a movie star in real life
They made a movie based off of this painting! AKA I missed seeing a movie star in real life

-2. Dutch Toilets:

You walk into the bathroom (that you had to pay half a euro for because of course there’s free healthcare in Europe, but no free loos)  and you see that all of the stall doors are made of glass. Not frosty glass oh no, the completely clear glassy glass.

Thank goodness it frosts over when you lock the stall door.

But still, that was a weird experience…

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TURKISH FOOD: My Quest to Find Ice Cream in the Winter

The food in Turkey is delicious. There is really no other word to describe it. I have actually missed it so much that last weekend I went to the Turkish restaurant in the neighborhood, but it was only a faint comparison.

I saw this promotional tourism video before I left, and the image I most remember is at 44 seconds. Turkish ice-cream! The video makes it look like a semi-solid, super elastic form of ice-cream. All I knew was that I had to have some. But of course, only in America do you sell ice-cream in the winter! 😦

6/1/2014 EDIT: It has come to my attention that the video above no longer exists. This must have happened when the Turkish government blocked YouTube. It was basically a really cute tourism video made by Turkish Airlines, but as Turkish Airlines is run by the government I doubt that the video will be back anytime soon 😦

Anyways, my favorite food by far was the Turkish pizza, called Pide.

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Pide Pizza and Apple tea. This pizza had some sort of minced meat and a special type of pepperoni.
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This one looks more like a baguette, but I promise it had lots of gooey cheese in the middle! Also, random fact, the Lipton iced tea in the states is horribly sweet, but outside of the US it always has just the right amount of sugar! Go figure.

My second favorite food was Kofte, a spiced, grilled, meat-ball like food.

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Literally the only thing this restaurant served was Kofte and salad. We didn’t get menus when we walked in, just Kofte, Kofte, and more Kofte!
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Lamb Shish Kebab and Kofte.

The Turkish people make rice really, really well. So well, that we would order extra sides of it! It’s called Pilav (like pilaf!)  and it usually has some sort of oil that gives it such a distinctive, light, pleasant flavor.

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Yum 🙂

One night our group was invited to a Turkish family’s home for dinner! It was such an interesting cultural experience. They served dinner buffet-style and had many different dishes. I only took one picture, because I didn’t want to seem like a creeper, but everything was delicious!

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This was another Pilav (rice) dish, but with meat. The lady told us that you put the meat at the bottom, then add the rice, and then flip the entire dish over onto a plate so that it looks really pretty. It was delicious!

Street Food: Doner!

That's Doner. It's like a giant slab of meat that is continually roasting.
That’s Doner. It’s like a giant slab of meat that is continually roasting. They either serve it on a bed of rice, or in a sandwich/wrap if you get it on the street!
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Adana meat, which is a lot spicier than normal meat, in a wrap with lettuce, tomato, cucumber, and other yummy things.
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Chicken Doner and freshly squeezed pomegranate juice! It was a little too tart for me, but what was I expecting??

Chicken Shish

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Chicken Shish. That yellow thing on the plate was in fact mashed potatoes! I was so surprised to find them outside of the states!

Ottoman Food: One night we went to an Ottoman restaurant in the neighborhood. Apparently Ottoman food is different from Turkish food because they tend to serve fruit in their meat dishes!

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I really wish I wrote the name of the dish down. We were at an Ottoman restaurant, it was lamb and it was fantastic. They also served it with an open flame!

Manti:

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Manti, according to Wikipedia are Turkish dumplings, but I thought it was just filled pasta shells! They contained spiced meat and they were covered in some sort of yogurt sauce.

One day, while we were with a CHP (political party in Turkey) candidate, we went to have lunch with the textile workers of Beyoğlu, a district in Istanbul. There were so many different groups of people from all over the world! The textile companies provide meals for their workers and give them lunch breaks, so this place was constantly full of people. They all segregated to sit with people who spoke their own language, but I met a man from Nigeria because he was the only worker there that we knew spoke English. I wish I could have found a way to discover how many different countries the workers were all from!

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Front: Roasted squash and eggplant stuffed with rice, and some sort of soup.
Back: Dessert. I have no idea what it is called (there were no signs anywhere) but it tasted like cinnamon and the texture reminded me a little bit of couscous. Good stuff.

Okay, I lied earlier. Istanbul does sell ice-cream in the winter, but you really have to search for it. Every time I saw that rare someone with ice-cream in the street, we were always rushing to our next meeting of the day! I was convinced that it was my fate to never have the pleasure of trying Turkish ice-cream, but by pure luck I found it on my last day!

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Here’s a picture of me taking a picture of the ice-cream, because I was so excited to finally find it!
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See how stretchy it is? The ice-cream itself was actually very good, but it was slightly chewier than most ice-cream!

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